Weathering - Washes
 by Great Models Webstore

Typically, the first step on the agenda after painting is to apply what is known as a "wash", which is simply a very weak solution of paint and the appropriate thinner. The most important thing here is to think of the wash NOT as thinned down paint, but rather "dirty thinner". What you want to accomplish is the slight deposit of paint into the recesses around detail areas to make them stand out with greater depth. This is one of the more rewarding steps in model weathering because it's where your model will take the biggest leap from brightly painted plastic toy , toward a realistic scale replica. Later on we will discuss dry-brushing, which cooperates with the wash for even more depth.

While it is possible to use acrylic paints (water-based), they're not the best choice. Even when thinned with alcohol, and acrylic paint wash can leave behind a blotchy appearance that is unnatural looking. While modern acrylic paints such as those by Polly S or Tamiya may be better suited than the formulas offered years ago, there are still issues to overcome because of the water content being repelled by surface tension. I have much better results with mineral based washes. As I mentioned before, when mixing up your wash, think dirty thinner (+ just a tiny bit more paint). Before beginning, make sure you have given the paintwork at least 48hrs to set up, plus it's not a bad idea to spray on a sealing coat of clear flat, matte or gloss to be sure the wash doesn't disturb the curing paint. While your paint job may feel dry to the touch, be aware that underneath it can remain "green" or uncured for as long as a few weeks. This sealing coat is most important when doing a mineral based wash over a mineral based paint. Even with a few days drying time, the wash can act like a solvent on the paint and lift it up, leaving unsightly bubbles or ripples.

For this reason, a very popular combination of paintwork/wash is an acrylic paint job, with a mineral based wash. You get the advantages of safe paint with non-toxic fumes while airbrushing, plus the very attractive finish of the mineral based wash. You should not require a clear coat with this combination, and best of all, the wash should have very little chance of damaging your paintwork. With this in mind, we'll finish up with a basic run-down of the steps:

1 - Mix up your wash as dirty thinner, starting out with BLACK. Later you can experiment with dark earth tones.

2 - Apply your "general wash" or all over wash. This is done with the largest hobby brush you have available. The trick is to quickly give the entire model a once-over by wetting the entire painted surface. What you don't want to do is stop and start, or leave some of the wash in a puddle for more than 5-10 seconds, because you can get an uneven finish. Just be prepared with plenty of wash mix, work with purpose, and keep moving. Work the wash away from open flat areas, and help it seek out and come to rest in any cracks and crevices. Here, it will eventually dry, leaving the lowered detail darker, making both it, and the surrounding area stand out!

3 - Rotate the kit all around, and gently dab away any puddles that remain on non-recessed areas. Leave this to dry. Even when you come back later and find it dry, resist the temptation to immediately apply a second round. Give the model plenty of "rest" time so that there is no chance the solvent in the wash will eat away at the paint or worse, the glue joints. It's happened before!

4 - Build up layers of washes until you are happy with the look. As with any weathering process, stop BEFORE you think you should. It is very easy to over-do this stage of the process, and you can always add more later.

5 - The big finish. While your wash job make look like a dream, there is a bit more you can do. Try adding some "local" washes. Simply put, take a brush from the other end of the size scale, perhaps an OO up to a 1, and apply tiny washes, pinpointing areas of special interest. Perhaps a streak of black, around a known greasy fitting, or around a wheel or sprocket. Gasoline fillers on cars or AFVs are prime candidates for local washes. Continue to examine the model for suspect areas, but again, don't over-do it.

6 - Finally, what type of paint to use? The great majority of expert modelers I speak to, seem to prefer oil based artist paints. These are the variety that come in tubes, also highly preferred for tasks such as painting figurines. The thinner of choice is even a larger topic, and many different varieties are available throughout the world. See what your fellow modelers have had luck with, and in the end, always pick quality when it comes to paints and thinners. There is a difference, and you don't want to skimp now when you're so close to the completion!